Great War Miniatures make a "Toffee apple Mortar" . While I had hear the term I was not sure what they looked like. But a quick google search found out all I wanted to know. I did find a variety of colourer Mortar rounds but settled on the yellow and black for a number of reasons. The most important being that I did not want it all dull green, like so many of the others. It is a wacky mortar and called for a wacky colour as well and who am I to say "NO!"
Another item painted for Matt and his ever growing ww1 collection. Of which a couple more next week as they are already painted and just need varnish and to be photographed. So I would hope to blog them about Wednesday.
That's it short an sweet today as I have a load of painting to finish before our club game tomorrow.
Take care, have fun and slap paint on metal just like a monkey.
All the best Clint
Saturday, 31 October 2015
Thursday, 29 October 2015
skirmish Sangin, game 2
Building on the success of the first game. I planned something a little larger. OK I used the 2nd scenario in the book.
In this scenario the British Paratroops are defending themselves from an ambush and the Taliban are attacking. WE each had a total of eight figures.
The terrain was very tight and excellent for close quarter battles. The problem was that I could only attack the British from certain very fight and congested directions. I am sure they found it just as tight as the medieval archer firing through an arrow slit of a castle.
The game started and while I did spot and shoot first I hit nothing! Absolutely nothing! But James return fire was pin point accurate every spot mad and every shot not only hitting but a lethal wound.
This photo shows the last attacker on the south side . Out gunned out flanked and out of luck! Which is not to say he did not hit a British NCO. He did, but the armour saved the lucky fellow and despite failing his morale check (Needing 95% +) he fumbled it rolling the dreaded 00% So while he was down on the floor in a festal position wishing he was back in good old blighty his oppo Managed to plug my Taliban at short range in the open and with no cover.
The last Taliban (a novice with rifle skill 0f 35%) tried to run of the board and escape back to base for tea and cake.
James mercilessly took aim with his Light Support Weapon (LSW) on the roof top and gunned him down.
The game was all over in a single turn !
I could have played it differently in hind sight. But on the day I did not and they were all killed out right. No wounded, no prisoners each shot a killing blow and his dice were just too good. Young people and dice, they are just too good.
We both enjoyed the game though despite my white wash! And in real life the media probably would not tell of it at all. Unlike our previous game where I did inflict one kill.
My conclusions are the same as last time. The game works well and the rules are fine and younger the player the more deadly they are with the dice!
2 losses out of two games, but no intention of putting any of it on eBay!
In this scenario the British Paratroops are defending themselves from an ambush and the Taliban are attacking. WE each had a total of eight figures.
The terrain was very tight and excellent for close quarter battles. The problem was that I could only attack the British from certain very fight and congested directions. I am sure they found it just as tight as the medieval archer firing through an arrow slit of a castle.
The game started and while I did spot and shoot first I hit nothing! Absolutely nothing! But James return fire was pin point accurate every spot mad and every shot not only hitting but a lethal wound.
This photo shows the last attacker on the south side . Out gunned out flanked and out of luck! Which is not to say he did not hit a British NCO. He did, but the armour saved the lucky fellow and despite failing his morale check (Needing 95% +) he fumbled it rolling the dreaded 00% So while he was down on the floor in a festal position wishing he was back in good old blighty his oppo Managed to plug my Taliban at short range in the open and with no cover.
The last Taliban (a novice with rifle skill 0f 35%) tried to run of the board and escape back to base for tea and cake.
James mercilessly took aim with his Light Support Weapon (LSW) on the roof top and gunned him down.
The game was all over in a single turn !
I could have played it differently in hind sight. But on the day I did not and they were all killed out right. No wounded, no prisoners each shot a killing blow and his dice were just too good. Young people and dice, they are just too good.
We both enjoyed the game though despite my white wash! And in real life the media probably would not tell of it at all. Unlike our previous game where I did inflict one kill.
My conclusions are the same as last time. The game works well and the rules are fine and younger the player the more deadly they are with the dice!
2 losses out of two games, but no intention of putting any of it on eBay!
Tuesday, 27 October 2015
Skirmish Sangin Trial game.
I finally got around to playing "Skirmish Sangin" By Radio Dishdash Publications. I was originally put off by the hefty volume as I wanted an easy game to play. And at 170 pages I put off reading the rules. I do not enjoy reading rules, sorry I just don't!.
So My nephew played the British and I was the Taliban. The first scenario was the Taliban had been firing sniper rounds into the British FOB (Forward observation base) and a small patrol of 4 men (1 fire team) had come across the place the sniper had been firing from. So the Taliban had 3 figures against the British 4. Firstly I want to say that the rules did work well and were very instinctive and that we were using my 20mm Afghan setup. While we did overlap on to two boards we could have played on a single 2 foot by 2 foot area. Mostly ranges do not matter with modern rifles at this scale but each rifle would have an effective range of 2.5 meters at that scale on the tabletop with sniper rifles and machine guns at least double that. So in a 2'x2' area range was not an issue.
So I set up 2 spotters with Ak47s on the roof .
The sniper I set up in some broken walls and ruins. So many people think snipers have to be up high. Yes they have got a good view up there, but it does compromise their ability to re-locate. Not being a trained sniper I do not know what the correct awnser is I suspect it changes with each battle and when it comes to war films who the director is. But what do I know.
The 4 British paratroops started kneeling behind a low wall. 3 had L85a2 rifles (one with an undeslung grenade launcher) the fourth figure had a "Minime" 5.56mm LMG.
When the British moved to outflank. See James may be my nephew but he is not daft (despite being related to me.
As they came over the low wall I was able to spot them and fired with my "Novice" Taliban. Now most (if not all) of the rolls are percentages and by the time I had spotted the enemy and fired the gun I was on a 06% chance to hit. Long story short I did not but did give my spotters position away!
James continues to out flank me. But like many young players I have noticed wanted to climb on the buildings. I think that comes from computer games and TV and at his age I would do the same.
I move my spotter to try to relocate and get out of sight.
My other spotter fires and actually hits a Para. But the Para flak vest stops the bullet, but does knock him down.
My sniper is rolling badly and can't hit anything. He is useless (at least when I have dice to roll!)
I am continued to be out flanked as the Para who had been hit dusts himself off passes a morale check and gets into cover out of line of sight.
My Novice Taliban rolls 100 % critically failing and misfires the AK. (There is a chart for fumbles and this is not too bad!) It just means a whole Phase of inactivity if he wants to fire again. My other spotter fails to see the Brits on the roof and continues to fir at the one he had already hit, who is now in cover. He does not hit the guy in cover and it does give his position away.
I continue to get outflanked as James puts pressure on my front and moves the flank runners around behind me.
The novice repairs his gun and opens up and SUPRISINGLY hits the para on the roof top and with a lucky wound roll kills him out right! So 1 to me and none to James .
Then it all goes wrong. the sniper gets outflanks and fails to spot the guy who out flanked him he does get a shot at another Brit, but misses by a long way and so no effect.
The Sargent who outflanked was able to shoot and downed the sniper very easily. The Taliban in these rules tend not to have armour and with James luck tend to die with a single hit.
James also is able to bring fire on the novice Taliban and he dies pretty swiftly as well and my other spotter being out numbered 3 to one dies in the next combat phase.
It was close but a win for the Brits (Taliban get more Victory points for killing Brits due to the press etc than the Brits do from killing the Taliban.) . But a clear British win none the less. The whole game lasted 1 and a half turns or about 2 hours of playtime as we were explain the rules and checking things. WE did not use any heavy weapons or vehicles just the starter scenario ad it was a good way to start.
Conclusion:
I may put another game on tomorrow or Wednesday.
Thanks for reading and I am quite impressed with how the rules work in practice. And I think they would work well in other settings, Vietnam for example.
So My nephew played the British and I was the Taliban. The first scenario was the Taliban had been firing sniper rounds into the British FOB (Forward observation base) and a small patrol of 4 men (1 fire team) had come across the place the sniper had been firing from. So the Taliban had 3 figures against the British 4. Firstly I want to say that the rules did work well and were very instinctive and that we were using my 20mm Afghan setup. While we did overlap on to two boards we could have played on a single 2 foot by 2 foot area. Mostly ranges do not matter with modern rifles at this scale but each rifle would have an effective range of 2.5 meters at that scale on the tabletop with sniper rifles and machine guns at least double that. So in a 2'x2' area range was not an issue.
So I set up 2 spotters with Ak47s on the roof .
The sniper I set up in some broken walls and ruins. So many people think snipers have to be up high. Yes they have got a good view up there, but it does compromise their ability to re-locate. Not being a trained sniper I do not know what the correct awnser is I suspect it changes with each battle and when it comes to war films who the director is. But what do I know.
The 4 British paratroops started kneeling behind a low wall. 3 had L85a2 rifles (one with an undeslung grenade launcher) the fourth figure had a "Minime" 5.56mm LMG.
When the British moved to outflank. See James may be my nephew but he is not daft (despite being related to me.
As they came over the low wall I was able to spot them and fired with my "Novice" Taliban. Now most (if not all) of the rolls are percentages and by the time I had spotted the enemy and fired the gun I was on a 06% chance to hit. Long story short I did not but did give my spotters position away!
James continues to out flank me. But like many young players I have noticed wanted to climb on the buildings. I think that comes from computer games and TV and at his age I would do the same.
I move my spotter to try to relocate and get out of sight.
My other spotter fires and actually hits a Para. But the Para flak vest stops the bullet, but does knock him down.
My sniper is rolling badly and can't hit anything. He is useless (at least when I have dice to roll!)
I am continued to be out flanked as the Para who had been hit dusts himself off passes a morale check and gets into cover out of line of sight.
My Novice Taliban rolls 100 % critically failing and misfires the AK. (There is a chart for fumbles and this is not too bad!) It just means a whole Phase of inactivity if he wants to fire again. My other spotter fails to see the Brits on the roof and continues to fir at the one he had already hit, who is now in cover. He does not hit the guy in cover and it does give his position away.
I continue to get outflanked as James puts pressure on my front and moves the flank runners around behind me.
The novice repairs his gun and opens up and SUPRISINGLY hits the para on the roof top and with a lucky wound roll kills him out right! So 1 to me and none to James .
Then it all goes wrong. the sniper gets outflanks and fails to spot the guy who out flanked him he does get a shot at another Brit, but misses by a long way and so no effect.
The Sargent who outflanked was able to shoot and downed the sniper very easily. The Taliban in these rules tend not to have armour and with James luck tend to die with a single hit.
James also is able to bring fire on the novice Taliban and he dies pretty swiftly as well and my other spotter being out numbered 3 to one dies in the next combat phase.
It was close but a win for the Brits (Taliban get more Victory points for killing Brits due to the press etc than the Brits do from killing the Taliban.) . But a clear British win none the less. The whole game lasted 1 and a half turns or about 2 hours of playtime as we were explain the rules and checking things. WE did not use any heavy weapons or vehicles just the starter scenario ad it was a good way to start.
Conclusion:
- Spotting the enemy is very important.
- Armour is a life saver. (literally)
- Cover is very important as well. It makes you harder to spot. !
- and harder to hit!
- never trust a young player with dice.... they roll well you know.
I may put another game on tomorrow or Wednesday.
Thanks for reading and I am quite impressed with how the rules work in practice. And I think they would work well in other settings, Vietnam for example.
Sunday, 25 October 2015
The chink in the wall
Mostly I have been painting things I cannot talk about. Today for example I will photograph the finished model for Secret Santa and send some Pics to Chris (Blog link) who is running it. To be honest the figure has come out very well and a long as he says so I will put it away for a month and then send it out. So Obviously I cannot talk about that.
I am also painting up some Cavalry for Peter in the wargames club, but they had been painted at least 3 times BEFORE I even saw them, They are also not the best castings and Peter told me they were the wrong figures historically (they are Tartars I think and not Turkish Cavalry.... which meant a whole waste of research) so getting them right has been a pain. I could talk about them, but my comments would not be positive so I choose not to.
So Instead here are some improvised walls for Frostgrave. Yes they are the wrong size, but they do look the part so I will let that slide. They are only 4 inches wide and not 6" But I had the 2mm mdf bases already pre-cut. They are also 4" tall and not 3" but I just do not care, they will do and loot the part and mostly the gaps between terrain are not as wide as 6 inches so putting one in place will serve that purpose. You can see they are carved polystyrene painted with a couple of coats of white emulsion and given a blue low-light just to make them look cold. Or at least colder. Quick easy and effective even if not exactly the right size. But to my mind they will do good enough for now.
Right back to painting these tartars and dreaming of starting a new project.....
All the best for now Clint
I am also painting up some Cavalry for Peter in the wargames club, but they had been painted at least 3 times BEFORE I even saw them, They are also not the best castings and Peter told me they were the wrong figures historically (they are Tartars I think and not Turkish Cavalry.... which meant a whole waste of research) so getting them right has been a pain. I could talk about them, but my comments would not be positive so I choose not to.
So Instead here are some improvised walls for Frostgrave. Yes they are the wrong size, but they do look the part so I will let that slide. They are only 4 inches wide and not 6" But I had the 2mm mdf bases already pre-cut. They are also 4" tall and not 3" but I just do not care, they will do and loot the part and mostly the gaps between terrain are not as wide as 6 inches so putting one in place will serve that purpose. You can see they are carved polystyrene painted with a couple of coats of white emulsion and given a blue low-light just to make them look cold. Or at least colder. Quick easy and effective even if not exactly the right size. But to my mind they will do good enough for now.
Right back to painting these tartars and dreaming of starting a new project.....
All the best for now Clint