The Moon's a Diarylea carton (Part 2)..... and relax

Well as you may remember just 5-6 days ago I posted (Part 1) and this is part 2 the final part. Well at least final for now.

Most of the rest is repetitive to do and needs to be left alone overnight. Perhaps longer if you applied the sand paint and glue mixture to thickly. THEREFORE do it somewhere it will not et disturbed, that is dry and no one  else wants to use and NO ONE minds if it gets dirty. IT WILL>

You will need 3 or preferably 4 (or more ) coats. It all depends on how much repair you are willing to do and how roughly they are to be treated.

Mix up the paint, glue and a small drop of water. You will know how much water with experience, and the only way to get experience is to do it! As a staring place I would suggest a LITTLE water. As it is just to thin the paint and the glue. I Try to use about 1 part water to 6-8 parts paint, it all depends on how much glue is already in the mix.

Paint the boards with this mixture. And then using a sieve sprinkle sand on the boards, making sure to cover all of the boards with first the paint/glue mixture and then again with the sand.
DO NOT try to brush the sand off!
Wait overnight (at least 25 hours preferred). For some people (Author looks sheepish) this is the hardest part

Repeat as mentioned above a MINIMUM of 3 times. (each time does make it stronger, BUT you do lose a little definition. So Plan on it taking 4 days  MINIMYM.


Remove excess sand at each coat. I find simply tipping it works very well. Repeat the tipping on all sides to make sure you have all the excess sand off before starting the next coat.

Keep the sand safe and use again on later coats.

If it is clumpy It has not had long enough to dry. Which means It has had too much water in the mix! If it is clumpy leave it alone for 2 more days (Perhaps longer is the weather is wet>.

While each step only takes 30 minutes or so, but drying time is MUCH longer.

When you are satisfied (remember a minimum of 3 coats and ample drying time). Paint it with emulsion paint your base colour. feel free to water the emulsion down a LITTLE as it then gives better coverage. If you water it down to much it will need 2 or perhaps more coats. (But usually not)

Leave it to dry (Again) overnight.

The final stage is to dry brush the op colours on. I use a 3"  or 4" brush for speed Bought in a pack from Poundland.

You will need to work up through the layers until you get to the highlight coat. So while you do TRY to keep brush marks out it is not a complete disaster if some occasionally show in the early stages.

Later coats will make any brush strokes less visible. feel free to work the colour into each and every contour. The boards if done properly should at this stage be strong enough, unless you are very heavy handed or super strong and determined.  But if you are maybe making terrain is not for you.

This stage should not take long if you have all the preparation done. If you start to early the sand will clump and you will struggle to get a good result. But I honestly finished the painting of both boards at this stage within 30 minutes. Preparation is the key and waiting for it to dry properly is VITAL.

DESIGN: When I made my first boards I had too many craters. So be aware of that. These boards have far fewer and are designed to allow other terrain features to be added later.

I decided on some open areas for 2 reasons. Firstly I did need some additional terrain , such as buildings (I will start a Farm in a week or 2), 2 because not every inch of the moon has been hit by a meteor, 3) some open spaces make a better game I have found.  (too much cover leads to a certain type of game and too little cover also leads to a certain type of game.

Finally:These 2 boards bring my moonscape (as I call it) up to an area of 6 foot by 4 foot. And if need be I could make it MUCH larger, limited only by time, storage and money. Ido not at this stage need a larger area so 6x4' is where (at least for now) I will stop.

Thanks for looking. All the best Clint

More Gruntz. 15mm sci fi

Let me start by saying I thought I had lost my camera, but instead It was put somewhere "Safe!" And we  all know  what that means.

Yes I know the line is not perfectly straight. BUT it is close enough for me on a small vehicle. All the figures are 15mm Sci Fi. Look away now if you only like historical.  First up a specialist Medic in an ambulance or as I am going to call it a MASH vehicle. Mostly I will just say MASH, (Mobile Army Surgical Hover-Vehicle). You wil I am sure note te French roundals on the  door. (A common theme on all my Sci Fi Gruntz  French Interstellar Legion (FIL) Troops. He also has a medical robot with him but still has to carry a couple of (No doubt) both heavy and delicate cases. Things do not change.

Ok the Specialist Medic is as follows.

Base cost 1 Point
Wounds 5 ( he's a non-combatant) 5 Points
Guard Average +3 points
Soak 10 +0 points
Shoot green +0 points
Assualt Green +0 points
Mental (veteran =5 Points)
Skill Green +0 points
Total 14/2= 7 points

Perks Medic +4 Points =11 points.

No weapons at all. His job is to heal NOT fight)

MASH
base Cost 1
Scout  size +8 points
Hover motion +2
NO weapons at all

Total points cost 10 points .It's just a run about for the medic. All it does is transport te medic and his equipment. Nothing more. But I am sure some players will target it you know what they are like.

Not sure where the Robot came from, but the medic is part of Brigade games crew pack and the MASH is a Brigade games Mercenary hover jeep (A nice kit modified but costs £3)

 Next uip are some Ground zero games figures that were NOT part of the French Interstellar Legion But they needed a lick of paint. in my head (only) they are corporate mercenaries set to  guard a site. What they are aculally is a mystery. I must have either bought them while feeling flush of they were given to me I do not recall at this time.

Autumn Skirmish from my bit of heaven!

Yesterday I was at a small and local show. So I shall do a show report later, but first the loot. Not the biggest haul I grant you and Only 1 "Impulse Buy" . I say Impulse buy as it was pre-ordered but following the show I am not sure it is needed. Oh well I am sure It shall find a home in a project at sometime.
Here's what I got.

• Spray Varnish. I had nearly run out so as easy to stock up at the show as to get anywhere else.
• 4 Pots of Paint. All replacement colours except the Purple. Ony the 2nd Purple I have bought in my life and the first one (an old GW one) dried up in the hot weather.
• 50mmx50mm mdf Bases. Yes I do need these and not for cavalry as has been suggested. Ray dis ask and I said I need them for Medic stands. (See later in the week)
• And a Victorian Photographer. (This now turn out to be an impulse buy as I scrap some plans and move forward with others.

Things arising: Well this is out of Order. But following the show I was relieved to be left with a feeling of wargaming Brotherly love. But also some disappointment. I did have plans for games at shows next year but they have been quashed. However I do have New ideas. Victorian Photographer is no longer needed, but back to the 6mm scale which I love!

The games:


Medway wargames Society
Dave and Paul
Playing a 28mm Fantasy game

15mm Dragon Rampant.
This is my kind of game.
Would have quite happily swapped.
"The Old Guard"

Another game I would quite like to be involved in.
28mm Crusades "Soldiers of God "Rules
I forgot the club name
 

A Roman Skirmish game
Sorry I forget the rules and the club.
28mm if that helps at all.
(Think Broken Legions but not sure)

Maidstone Wargames Club
28mm WW1
Much more Info on "Whisperin Al's Blog"
I say this without checking as he was one of the players.

28mm Skirmish wargames Club.
North Africa 1918 French Foreign Legion against Berbers
Using their own rules.

"Privateers of London club
For once NOT doing a naval game which they tend to.
20mm, Unknown rules.

Milton Hundreds Club
(You meet in Sittingbourne so why you do not call yourself the
Sittingbourne Wargames Club, I do not know)
15mm Team Yankee Rules.

Herne Bay/Whistable club.
20mm WW2 Using Rules of Engagement (I think)
Larry and Dave
2 nicer wargamers it is hard to meet.



Gravesend (I think) put on a couple of games
Blood bowl or the right
and "0mm Rapid Fire (I think) on the left.

Our club Game. Yes it was 28mm Napolionic (A period I dislike because of the way others feel it is both important to get the details right (You cannot use that figure as it has the wrong colour buttons, they were Brass and not bronze!). You get the idea!

28mm Black Powder rules French vs Prussian

My start area
Peter and Alex opposite me
Graham on the right

Bob and later Gary were also playing French.
All tarrain and Troops were supplied by Tim

I got of to a good start and all my units could move in my first turn.
And then the Dice gods failed me!
I had about 3 turns in a row of doing nothing!

See Positions exactly the  same for me.
Luckily  Peter opposite was also luck with the dice.
And while he was at times able to shoot the Majority
of his Landwere did about as much as my French
Which is to say NOTHING!

Finally able to move my Hussars they charged the Skirmishers.
Which held!
Not sure that would have been a real life outcome but the dice gods hate me at times.
Nothing else to say.

 Overall this is about as far as I got with the game. partially as the show was winding down and partially because I lost interest.

Napolionics... Hmm I would rather play tiddly winks.

Thanks for looking More in 2 days as I work on some terrain and some Gruntz specialists. very tempted to get side tracked, thinking Renaissance Italians! But do not hold me to that!

All the best and thanks for looking!

The moon's a dairylea carton! (Pat 1)

Starting place

Well sort of but it's also loo or kitchen roll tubes as well as several other things When It comes to making terrain I will use anything. The limits are what does it cost, will it work, and what will it look like!

I wanted to make some more "Moon" boards for 15mm sci fi. (well any scale sci fi really!)  That being the case I  have started! Long time followers will no doubt recall the process.

Here is a quick walk through of how it is made.

Firstly you  need a board of the right size. My other boards are 2'x4' so these will be 2'x2' It will offer a great deal od variety that way.

Starting the Craters

 Craters are the most time consuming of all  the processes. Firstly take a tube and cit it down to the right height. No one can tell you what the right height is you will have to judge it for yourself. But as a word of warning LOWER is better! so 1=2 cm for a roll of masking tape size tube!

Next build up SEVERAL(3-4) layers of tape.  These will go from the inside to the outside. They need to be firmly "squished"  down in the centre and at he edges. They also need to leave a hollow triangle section which make up the slopes of the crater. Just look at the picture and see what I mean. Right you understand now! (I hope)

Keep going it takes a while!

It takes much longer than you think and you will use up LOADS of masking tape. Luckily "Poundland" currently has 4 rolls for £1. So if there is one local get it there. I use masking tape you 2 reasons. Firstly the Cost. It's cheap. Secondly it has a mat textured back and that makes it easier to attaché the sand to! Feel free to use something else and if It works better let me know. Currently I know Masking tape works and it's cheap and that is why I use it.

Do all the craters

It's common sense but do all the craters at one time. Yes it is boring and time consuming but I know this way works and I also know that other than the wood (which does cost a bit) works out cheaply. It really does, materials costs were less than £1 for 2 boards each measuring 2' x2'. And lets be honest that is less than a pot of paint!

add the sand texture!

This is the messy part. DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS. Mixing up a LITTLE water White PVA glue (Actually called Resin W by people who know) A coloured water based paint (either acrylic or Poster or Emulsion) I use all three at different times (NOT TOGETHER). And Brush it on the boards. Now I use the cheapest brushes I can get (5 for £1, from "Poundland") and at that price it is easy enough not to care about them. before the Paint mixture with the PVA is even nearly dry I sprinkle (via a sieve) builders and on the board. I use Builders sand because it is cheapest and one you have a bag that will last you years.

That is he process. It is not hard at all but does require some patience, practice and hardest of all some common sense!

Part 2 to follow later this week,as It takes some time to do it! And I have yet to get as far as a finished board this time out. I plan on showing it NEXT weekend! (that shall encourage me to get of my fat lazy bum and get some terrain done!)

Off to a small local show tomorrow so a show report and loot on Monday. Until then, take care and paint something!

Bringing it together Gruntz force "Legion Francaise Interstella"

By the time we got into space to fight other Gruntz Legion Franciose Interstella had been formed out of the original French Foreign Legion here is my force (So far)* see the end) for Gruntz. (All this is subject to change when Jon the person who shall teach me the rules reviews it!)

 

Equipe d' infatntrie (Infantry Squad) In Gruntz 6 figures make a standard squad. So French Squads will have 8 figures.
Points as follows
Base cost 1
Shoot Seasoned 3
Assult Seasoned 3
Guard Average 3
Soak Light 3
Mental Seasoned 3
Skill Trained 1
17/2 = 8.5 (round to 9)
Laser Rifle 3 combat knife 0

2 attachments Missile Launcher, (4+3)  Squad medium Laser (2+3)
Perks "Hard Vets!" +1

Total 25
yes it is a lot for a squad, but it could be a LOT worse!

Véhicule d'escouade  (Squad Vehicle ) In 3 variants

Base Cost 1
Light Vehicle +12
Hover + 2
Seasoned skill +3
Light laser gatling + 2 (weapons mount +2)
Or Coms +6
or Light Missile Plus mount (+8)
Basic Infanty Hover = 22 Points
Light Missile Infanty hover = 26 points
Comms variant is 24points.

So basic squad and vehilce is 47 Points


Heavy Infatry (be aware a second vehicle is Under construcion)

Base Cost 1
Medium Vehicle 19
Wheeled +1
Seasoned skill +3
2 mounts and 2 Squad Medium Lasers (+10)
Points 34

Escouade d'Infanterie Lourde (Heavy Infantry squad)

 

6 Figures Base Cost 1

Shoot Veteran +5 points

Assult Seasones +3

Guard Average  +3

Soak (Power armour) + 7

Mental Seasoned +3

Skill trained +1

23/2= 11.5 Round to 12
Laser Rifle +3 Combat knife 0
"Hard Vets" =1
Total points 16

Cheap for  Power armour I think, (But only 6 shots a turn)

 

Rommel Class Medium Hover Tank
(Vol Stanionaire Moyen)
Base cost 1
Medium +23
Hover +2
Weapon  Mounts (+3)
medium Missiles +7
Squad medium Laser +2
Seasoned skill +3

Points 40

 Véhicule anti-aérien (Or AA vehicle)
Older vehicle tracked and not hover so slightly slow)
Base Cost 1
medium +23
Tracked +1
1 weapon mount (+1)
Medium Gatling laser. +3
Ack ack +1
Seasoned Crew. +3

Points 33

véhicule de reconnaissance (or Scot Vehicle)
Cammonly just called a "Vif" by the troops.

Base cost 1
Scout vehicle +8
 Hover +2
Seasoned Crew +3
Weapons Mount 1 (+2)
Weapon Light Gatling Laser +2

Points 18

Infantrie Leger (Light Infantry. Relying more on speed than armour)

Base cost 1

Shoot Seasoned  +3 points

Assult Seasones +3

Guard Average  +7

Soak (Scout)) + 1

Mental Seasoned +3

Skill trained +1

2 attachments (one with SA Laser (+3 +3) one with SA Missile launcher +3+4)

Perk "Hard Vets" +1

Points 33

These last 2 are a bit dodgy as the rules make no allowance for a SINGLE SQUAD split among more than one vehicle. So I can only use them IF my opponent agrees. As a point of Fair play if oe vehicle id destroyed and not the other I shal allow the opponent to select the squad attachment that is destroyed!)Seems only fair as he would be allowing me to use them not strictly I  keeping with the rules.

Véhicule de reconnaissance léger Or Light reconnaissance vehicle.

 

Base Cost 1

Light Tank) =13

Wheeled +1

Main weapon Mount +1

Light Gatling Laser +2

veteran crew + 5

Modz ACTIVE CAMO +3

 

Points 26

 

OKAY this is the first time trying to sort out a  basic force cost sheet for Grunts. IF any seasoned gruntz players look at this they will probably chuckle, smile or Howl with laughter depending on how much I have wrong! And there is bound to be some.

 

But that is it for now My brain is doing back flips.

 

I do have several things which shall be added over the next week or so

A couple (actually 3 Specialisest; 1 medic in a Mash and 2 vehicle repair specialists in a "fitters Truck")

 

As a final note I think the computer has translated nearly everything into french and as such almost every word I can see is highlighted as spelt wrong!

 

Until next time take care, have fun and pant like a mad man!

All the best Clint

 

 

An Appology

Firstly I need to apologise. Some very VERY kind and generous soul painted these figures for me and  sent them as a secret gift. What comes next in no way devalues that persons generosity. I was then and I am now deeply touched. And that is the only reason for this blog post. I am now going to repaint them. It is not that I do not value them as they are but I want to bring them in line with the figures I already have. Trust me I do like them and because I like them I desire to sue them rather than have them sit on a shelf and get dusty and unused. Who ever sent them I strongly hope this does not offend you at all. That would be my least wanted outcome.

I am repainting/re-basing most of my 15mm sci fi and the idea is to bring these into line with the rest.

I have no interest in which of my readers sent them. I shall assume you all did.

I shall post them when finished in a day or four.

All the best Clint. Inside I am smiling at your generosity!

Green and Yellow men at arms Lion Rampant

Yes a unit (well very nearly) of Men at arms for Lion Rampant. I do intend to do another at some point so stay tuned. Actually no need to stay tuned it will probably be a few weeks time. So dismounted Knights or Men at arms come in units of 6 in Lion Rampant. Yet still fight better than most other units.

The banner bearer needs to be changed. Nothing wrong with the banner or the painting but when taking him out to varnish he fell on a concrete path and shattered and I have lost an arm. No rush for this but it shall be done shortly after Selwg wargames show.

I did look at putting yellow at the top of the banner and green beneath. It seemed the most logical arrangement, and that is exactly why I did not!

The figures are all Perry Agincourt British men at arms and therefore 28mm. As such they will fit in with my Lion Rampant forces quite well. There iare exactly the right amount of left and right arms so I cannot go for different options this time which also means I cannot easily switch out weapons. Thus they all have 2 handed weapons in the form of short spears or Pikes Battle axes, pole axes and the like. I quite like this as it adds to the look of butcher-ism!

I have been busy last night rebasing figures. So most likely that next time as I prepare for a "GRUNTZ" game. And the hope of learning the rules. As such I am currently making some more terrain. I shall do a walk through probably next week.

If there are any "GRUNTZ" players who read this I may well have some questions about force composition next time.

Until then good painting, enjoy the days ahead and paint your hearts out if you can.

Brunehilde

Brunhilde was a Frank leader/chieftain of the early Germans. She is also a shield maiden in Wagners "Ring Cycle" commonly called a Valkyrie. So I thought it was a fitting name for  my carrier in aeronef.  It is so large I have had to make my own flying stand. (Still work to do on that). It is by Brigade models (LINK). They do not have any suitable bases either, so no short-cut there. At present it dips down slightly in the front, but that shall be rectified. The model comes as a multi part kit in both resin and white metal. But goes together easily . (except whan you loose 2 turrets)

I have included a pic of Wagners Brunhilde just so you know what I am talking about. The aeronef Brunhilde is quite the largest aeronef I have seen (as yet) and as such dwarfs many of the other nations carriers. I have yet to see the stats for the ship but am expecting Large medium and small guns as well as the ability to launch 2 wings of fighters each turn. (Assuming I have paid the points for them) and Can field them on the table. Yes I feel an order to Brigade coming very shortly as I feel I will need torpedo bombers!

 Showing the other side it only has one runway. Tis is not a problem as The aircraft (not shown) easily fit on it. matt has expressed some envy of it as it does make the British carrier look small. But as we all know size is only one solution. The whole model costs £9 but is a pain to paint. There is no where for it to rest. Theerfore you have to paint a bit and the Vanish it or else rub paint off with your hands as you handle it.  I suspect It has had 5 coats of varnish in all. Including a top coat when all the painting is done.

 Just to hint at how large it is the photo shows a small Patrol Aeronef sitting on its stand. As you can clearly see the patrol nef can fit inside one of the hangers (if put at an angle). It was a beast to paint and I am glad it is over. No Matt I do not want to paint any more!











Unrelated. I have had a mini spend on eBay. The books are to give me a bit of a boost with Lion Rampant and the Video with Pup alley. I hasten to add there will not be dinosaurs and cowboys in pulp alley this time. So forget that idea. But something to watch in the small hours when sleep does not come.

Next time some more Lion Rampant. And an accident with  a figure.

Until then have a good weekend and do something to reward yourself.

All the best Clint