Friday, 27 March 2015

ACAV M113 (1/300th scale.)

Being honest I don't know what these are for! I got them so long ago and have now painted or should I say repainted and based these 4 vehicles. The problem is now that they are done I cannot find them in the cold war era German Army lists. (I have also checked the Canadian and Greek lists) So while I am sure I shall find a use for them I just don't know what yet. DOH!

So while I figure it out here are 4 M113 ACAV personal carriers. But they are done now and despite the fact that 2 and facing the wrong way in the pics I am quite pleased with them. So Pleased in fact that they have sidetraked me into refreshing my 20mm Vietnam war figures. So expect them in a week or two. But for now I will finish painting some WW1 figures for Matt, and you can also expect them soon.

But Back to these, With the exception of starting a 1/300th scale Vietnam force (or 2, one for each side) I may have to use them as cold war era US National Guard. There is nothing wrong with doing this of course but it does not help my German cold war troops one little bit!

Thanks for stopping by today and with luck I will be able to focus on a more productive project next time.

Take care and get some painting done.
Cheers Clint

Wednesday, 25 March 2015

Atlas and Hermes

No not a comedy double act. But 2 more Battle tech "Mechs" painted. It has been a LONG while since I painted any mechs one of the reasons is I never know what colour to paint them. One school of thought is to paint them camouflage patterns and colours as they are fighting vehicles. The other line of thought is to use heraldic colours. Personally I do like both approaches and being totally inconsistent will flit between both with different mechs as the mood takes me. But this time I have settled on a hybrid scheme that is both heraldic and camouflage in nature. I used a sandy colour up to the waist and a light blue for the torso head and arms. You can see the camouflage colouring on the right. I will not do very many mechs this colour but you can see it might just work!

The models are that very nasty plastic and not the metals of yesteryear. They were included in the 25th anniversary box set of Battletech I bought a couple of years ago. And these were the first things started AFTER the Analogue painting challenge. The plastic has lots of casting issues and quite a bit of "Flash" overall I am not impressed with the choice of materials. The Mechs however are just about the same as the metal ones from when I was just a tad younger.

Firstly we have a 100 ton Atlas class mech,  it is just about the largest Inner Sphere mech you can get. It does not carry the scary PPC, but does have the more devastating Ac20 for close in work. This does not mean you  can stand off at long range and snipe kill it either as it also has a LRM 20 for those long range shots. As one of the biggest and most powerfull inner sphere mechs you knew it was not going to be so easy to deal with.

Secondly we have the Hermes class mech. It is only 40 tons so we cannot expect too much from it. But it has a running speed of 9 so it can move about quite well, OK very well despite the fact that it is not jump capable. It is one of the rare mechs that has a flamer and while that does not do oh so much damage to other mechs and only has a 3 hex range it can cause the opponent to "Run hot" which as battletch players we all know is not good. It also has an AC5 for long range work and a medium laser for closer in and when ammo consumption is an issue. Not as lightly armoured as some other mechs of this 40 ton weight limit but for the weight I would go for a "Whitworth" but it really is personal choice when it comes to Battltech mechs.. Some mechs are just horrid but most can be good if you choose to play them in the right way. And that is what I like about Battletech even 25 years on, it can be quite balanced if the weight classes are the same. I still don't fancy 4 "Urban Mechs2 against a single "Awesome" though.

I apologise for using some of the slang from the game as if you have never played Battletech most of it will be a foreign language to you. But if you are a battletech player the slang is like music to your ears.

Thanks for looking today and I hope to have some more new stuff by Friday. (Working on it now). But most importantly have fun take care and get some painting done.

Cheers Clint

Monday, 23 March 2015

28mm Viking-es

 Yes a female Viking. Hence the "word" 'Viking-es' I do not think that is a proper word so be very careful about using it. This figure is one of Colonel Bills "Beltfed" miniatures range which are a selection of saucily clad females in various historical costumes. And this one is of course a female Viking. As I want to do some Conan style wargames this year she seemed to be just the right type of figure and for £2.50 I thought a bargain.

She was also the last figure I painted for the Analogue painting challenge and was mostly done for some fun and relaxation. I can honestly say I did muck hers skin up on the first try and it came out looking somewhat grey and dirty. Which was not my intention so I did paint her twice out of necessity.

While I did find the sculpt and casting very nice my only pet gripe is that her trousers came with the vertical markings for the stripes scratched in. While not a problem as such it does limit her to having striped trousers as to paint them in another way might show the sculptors marks. While I will only ever get one of this figure it is not a huge issue but I will forever feel that the choice has been taken from me and that everyone will paint stripes on her bow. That really is my only quibble with the miniature.

I am not totally happy with the shield I have painted either. I might re-paint the end part of the tail so that it is in line with the head, it might give it a better balance. What I do like is the shield design though and the colours. It is only where I have put the end part of the tail upwards. That is a very minor issue and I can change that in moments when I start painting today. What I do like about the design is the ambiguity between is it a "Longship" or a sea serpent. I can take very little credit for that either as I saw the design on a re-enactors shield once long ago. So credit should go to them, or the source they used for it.

Overall I am happy with the figure and for the price would struggle to find a better one.

Thanks for looking. One more post to go to catch up so expect that about Wednesday. Take care have some fun and may your paint pallet never run dry or your inspiration wane.

Cheers Clint

Saturday, 21 March 2015

More 10mm Samruai

While at the Cavalier show I was able to pick up some more Pendraken 10mm Samurai from Second City games. They were a mixed bunch probably left over from someone else's collection. So together with my "Odds and Sods" I cobbled them together to make a few more stands.

As my two agmies are currently matched I have decided to make a Green force. Which I can use as an ally of either of my other armies. Not a large allied force as there are only 7 stands of infantry. And 2 of those stands may actually join my main armies as by checking the pose and the catalogue number it identifies them as Samurai with Naginata.  The issue being that the Naginata in question seem to have very short handles and to my untrained and now squinting eye look more like No Dachi (2 handed swords). So I may be better off pretending that is what they are.

4 of the Cavalry stands are already put aside for my other armies but the 5th one can belong to the allies. It just balances everything up nicely this way.

The last 2 figures are Samurai mounted separately as messengers. It is quite possible that when they do deliver new orders they may get ignored entirely as the lord in charge of that section arrogantly chooses to do his own thing.

These were also painted as part of the Analogue painting challenge but I just did not get round to posting them on my blog during the challenge.

The VERY good news is that I have started to paint already, currently working on Battle-tech mechs. Just to do something for me and to keep it light.

Thanks for looking and with any luck another post come Monday.

Take care watch the rugby and have some fun with a paintbrush in your hand.

All the best Clint

Friday, 20 March 2015

top 10

Well the Analogue Painting Challenge has ended for another year. And as my 2nd year involved I have done slightly better than last year managing to get in the top ten painters. Which means I have come in at no.10. This is not a measure of skill but of production. If it was skill I would probably have come somewhat lower. Still I worked to the criteria and I for one am pleased with my 10th place.

Next year (assuming there is another challenge) I will act very differently. I will settle on a lower production level but I will enter the side challenges and try to amass bonus points where I can. As this year I did not do any of the bonus rounds I just wanted a "Pure Points" target. I hasten to add there is no slight intended by anyone who went for bonus points it is all part of the challenge and as I have said next year (well late this year) I will do the same.

I still have figures to put on my blog from the challenge and will start doing that soon, just not today. One of the issues I have had with the painting challenge is that I was only allowed to make post onto the challenge forum on set days (Every Monday in my case). This has meant that my own blog has suffered as here I would normally post every other day. So to get back in the swing I will post again tomorrow. And then every other day after that. Well that's the plan but I am sure real life will stop that soon.

So thanks to you all for your support and in 9 months it all starts again!

Cheers Clint

Tuesday, 17 March 2015

Spring Skirmish 2015

Well as you saw from my last blog post I did NOT have a big spend at the "Skirmish" show in Sidcup on Sunday.

But as a club Rainham was going to put on a game. And to my mind at least it was one of the best looking at the show. "Skirmish" is only a small local show and to be honest has a mixture of model kits and toy soldiers then a smaller selection of  wargames stuff. But there is usually enough to keep it interesting. 

So anyway Rainham was going to put on a Muskets and Tomahawks game. Everything was supplied by Tim, the terrain the figures the rules and the ideas. So I really will take NO credit for his excellent work.

None of our group had ever played "Muskets and Tomahawks" and I found the rules fairly intuitive and quite easy to pick up. I did struggle with different units being able to move different rates a challenge. But once in the swing of it and if I played a couple more games I would be happy enough.

Bexhill Reapers wargames club. Trying out their game for Salute.
I am told there is much more to do with lighting effects etc.
And they might even get some roads finished by then and some more figures painted.
It was a WW2 Zombie game.
Larry and Dave from Herne Bay/Whitstable club.
Playing Lion Rampant rules.
At the end of the day they told me that they liked the rules
as it was their first time playing.
Zombiecide board game.
I think Tolehaven put this on but I am not 100% sure.
Some of the Pre-release civilian figures from East Street Games.
They will be released at Salute.
The rules will be a little longer!
Bullets and Brains or might be Brains and bullets! By east street games.
This with some tweaks will be at Salute as well.
Speaking to the guys they are hoping to come down to our club
and put this game on for us.

Needless to say it's a zombie game so I will probably buy the rules at some point!
Anyway if you read this guys I really do appreciate the offer.
A view of the games hall. no traders in here.
The Picture below was taken facing the opposite direction.
 So that was the small local show for me. Being Mothering Sunday foot fall was a bit low as certain people could not get a kitchen pass out of the house!

 Overall a good day. But here are my highlights which cannot go in pictures.
  • I have been offered a lift to the Salute Show. Last year the British rail ticket sales woman on the day sold me the wrong ticket which cost me £9 more than it should and did not allow me to use the tube. So by the time I had got a tube ticket I was about £14 out of pocket more than I should have been.
  • East street games are coming to the club to put a Zombie game on for us. I just hope the club guys appreciate it. I KNOW I will. So in a few weeks time expect a mass of pics of that game.
  • I was asked to sculpt something after talking about my early career as an architectural modelmaker. I stopped going it after 4 years as I had a nervous breakdown. I am not going to sculpt anything as I am not any good at all at sculpting and would not want to disappoint anyone. But very flattering to be asked.
That's it folks. More to come in a couple of days. Take care, paint figures and have some fun, all the best Clint

Sunday, 15 March 2015

Loot. (Spring Skirmish)

I have been feeling a bit down these last few weeks hence the lack of posts. But today I went to a small local show and helped put on a game and it has brightened my mood a little. No not because I won, I lost. Have you not realised I always loose. So yes lost again, or I would have done IF we had actually finished. So while it technically might be a draw, for me it might feel like a win! But it was actually a loss.

But I thought I would do a very quick loot/swag post as I tend to after shows! So here goes.  Other then food here is what I bought.... as for food I bought a corned beef and salad roll and 2 cans of coke, but 1 can was free from the organiser so I am not sure that counts.

So what was my MODEST loot list. Well very modest.

3 28 mm martial artists. I have an idea for a zombie game set in a dojo and for £3 I thought to explore the idea.

1 Beltfed miniature of a topless female Viking. When I say topless I do not mean I only bought the legs! I got her because I want to do some Conan wargaming this year. (She is not for the Zombies in a dojo idea.)

The "Fist full of Kung Fu" rule book was actually purchased via a trader on Amazon. (Which turned out to be Cavalier books) and I want to say how good the service was. You really could not get better. In this case I ordered it lunch time on the Friday and it arrived lunch time on Saturday. So about 24 hour service. Having read the rules they will not be suitable for the "Big Trouble in Tiny Dojo" Idea. But they may get used later. I have ideas but not yet plans.

I will do a show report and some chit chat later this week. But for now I am going to look at my figures and dream!

Cheers Clint

Monday, 9 March 2015

How to lose a campaign part 3

The table set up, Federal troops on the left.
Yes another lose for me and the federal troops. I have yet to win or even draw a game in this campaign and I swear I am not trying to lose it. I read the campaign rules last autumn that Graham had written and made the prediction back before a dice was rolled or a figure was put on the table that whoever won the first game in the campaign would win the campaign. So far I have found that to be the case. I am not having a go at Graham who wrote the campaign rules I really am not but I am enjoying saying "I told you so!"

2nd Objective captured on turn 2 by the Rebels.
Anyway here is what happened this campaign turn. I can already tell you what the result will be for the next one as well. But I will let you guess.

We are playing Civil War battles by Peter Pig. A very well balanced and good set of ACW rules. Not my first choice for rules but I do like them.

My 0ne victory of the day.
 The first upset for me was that as I was again defending I would loose troops from the table before the game started. I had a nice VETERAN unit in the 2nd Objective who rolled so badley they all had to start the game at 1/2 strength and off of the table. Oh well bad things happen in war. And I had 2 other veteran units. 1 started at 1/2 strength on the table, the other at full strength off the table. I did have 3 average intantry units as well and did have 2 of them on the table at 2/3rds strength.

So as Scott and Tim had already Captured the 1st objective in the start phase nothing I could do to get it back. So I managed to move (Just move) an average unit into the farm (2nd objective) to hold it. Almost immediately a veteran Rebel unit close assaulted them. My troops instantly turned tail and fled the board. So the second objective was lost on turn 2!

Foolishly I had put my cavalry too far forward and a second Rebel Veteran Unit managed to charge them, they fled but took some damage . They did stay on the board though. This meant that Scott was able to bring 3 confederate units altogether and keep forcing them back. No complaints my mistake for moving them there in the first place. Eventually by the end of the game they had been whipped out to a man with just nothing I could do to prevent it. Shame but I made the mistake so I will live with it.

Elsewhere on the board with 2 objectives held there was no way I could move the Rebs. This gave me the choice of trying and loosing even more troops of carry out a fighting withdrawal. With each of my units out numbered between 3 and 5 units to each of my depleted units I decided the base action from a campaign point of view was to withdraw.

I tried to get everything from the table while keeping everything in good order. I was still clinging precariously to the last objective. I had a 1/2 strength Raw morale Union Cavalry their and a single (Now Damaged) gun . At the other end of the board I had 2 guns (Undamaged) and a battered Veteran unit that started the game at 1/2 strength . The infantry would not get motivated enough to move from the table. So Scott sent his 5 Infantry units to budge them as he was intent on slaughtering them. Not that I blame him both confederate players played well. I was able to ruin one of his units (an average one) and make another fall back.

But the countdown had meant the end of the game. So another Federal Loss 45 pts to 48. yes just 3 points in it and if we had stayed and fought on the loss would have been FAR greater so with the exception of the bad placement of my cavalry I don't think we did badly. But a loss is still a loss.

The next battle will not see the campaign come to an end. But It will mean from now on I will have to pay full points for units that have absolutely no chance of remaining intact before the game starts. So win or lose the game after that will see what is now a VERY tattered  army take the field.

The way the campaign is set up I am now facing a snowballing steamroller and there is nothing I can do to alter that. Graham (Campaign administrator) will still insist that IF I get a naval battle I could win that battle. And true I still could. BUT my land forces are so battered that the Confederates will continue to attack no matter what happens in a single battle as they know there is nothing I can now do to stop them.

But I will play on.

Cheers for reading. Take care and have fun. All the best Clint

Friday, 6 March 2015

basing walk through.

I do not expect you to learn anything from reading this as it is probably already known but it is in stead a step by step walk through (not Guide) on how I do it. There are quite a few stages so if you are going to follow it be prepared to spend some time and effort. I can't really say more than that. Just follow the pictures read the notes and then if you choose leave a comment. You may well have a better way of doing any of the steps and I am more than happy to take any tips and hints from you as well.

This is just how I do it.

Step 1: I normally paint the figures before I start to paint as this allows me to get the brush round every corner of the model. But the two flamethrower miniatures are single figures so there was nothing to get in the brushes way so I was OK with these two!

Step 2: Superglue them to the base. I can and do use card, plastic and MDF bases depending on the Figures I am mounting and what the rest of the army has.

Step 3: I apply a thin layer of filler on the base. This is to hide the obvious step on the base of the figure and the top of the base. The Filler I use is ready mixed from the 99p store. It can be of variable quality but for the price I am happy to chuck it out if it gets too hard and a little water will not soften it to the right viscosity. It takes a while so leave it over night to dry, just to be sure. You may notice at this stage that the filler has shrunk away from the metal. If is is a small gap don't worry the next stage will fix that. If it is a bigger gap apply a second coat and again wait overnight or at least a few hours!

 Stage 4: Using CHEAP acrylic paint. I sue the big tubes you can get in "The Works" as One tube really does last a few years. To get the right flow (Viscosity) I water it down with some black ink. This makes it a good deal easier to paint on and creates a dark base from thick to work. While this is all wet from the paint and Ink that you have painted all over the base (except the edges) I dip the whole base in sand. Use the cheapest sand you can get it is just for texture and not the finished effect.

Having said that It will be better if the sand has dried out and is not wet itself as it clumps up if it is. So I have a bag of builders sand in the shed and have sifted it  weeks before needing it and put it in a separate container. Better safe than sorry.

 Step 5: Once the paint and sand is dried (again I leave it over night) I re-paint the base with the cheap Ink and cheaper paint (from the works). This seals it all in nicely. Other people will suggest using PVA (White Wood Glue) but I do not find that nessercary. Paint and Ink works just as well if allowed to dry. By using the Ink and the Paint any small holes will also be filled with sand and this will seal them in and at the end you will never know.

Step 6: "Drybrush" the base coat green over the while base. Don't feel you have to wipe any paint of off the brush. at this stage it does not matter if you have a few patches of green that are lighter than the rest. There is still a long way to go.

Stage 7: Using your darkest brown add some paths. Literally just brush it on as you want the brown to act as a base for later colours.

Stage 8: Using a lighter brown I dry brush the paths. And Using a lighter Green I do the rest of the base.

Stage 9: Repeat stage 8 but using progressively lighter tones. I tend to use 3 extra tones. I know it works with less but it is the habit I have gotten into.

 Stage 10: for the final highlight I use pure yellow on the grass (as I Make each stage progressively lighter using yellow and not white.)  While for the paths I end up with a flesh colour as the top highlight. But the yellow and the flesh paints are done very lightly more a hint and anything. I also don't apply them everywhere. Go and look at some grass and dirt you will see what I mean as it will show every lump and bump as the sun hits it. And It just looks more natural if it is uneven this way. Yeah I know it's work but it really does not take long and to my eye does look right !

Stage 11: I use small clump foliage in a variety of greens ripped into very small pieces but no larger than the waist of the figure and dot two or three to each base. Simply use superglue for instant fixing and don't worry if it goes across more of the base than you first wanted as the superglue will dry clear and shiny. Once this is dry this is your LAST chance to tidy up the figure if you got any grass paint on the figure. So Tidy up as required it does not take long.

Optional stage 11a: Sometimes I will use static grass as this stage and sometimes I will not. It depends on the model and how I feel about it!

 Stage 12: The reeds. For the reeds I use a purpose bought wallpapering brush. It came from Wilkinsons and cost a massive £1. As You can see I have used about 1/2 of it and have used it on 2 armies so really when compared to metal figures is cheap enough for the job. Do not use  anyone else's, buy one for yourself as it will last  and if it is your own no one will complain if you start cutting pieces of off it. And I don't want anyone to get into trouble, and that includes me.

Stage 13: As you can see in the pictures I find it easier to work in clumps of reeds rather than one at a time. I just get 15-25 bristles and cut them all straight with scissors and using superglue hold them in place and viola they stand upright on the models.

This is the tricky bit. Holding them firmly with one hand I again using small scissors cut them to the required height. My advice is to cut them short as the longer they are the more chance they will come off. Say about 5-7mm for a 15mm figure. Occasionally they will not have stuck properly when you cut them. If they all fall over when cut I just drop superglue on them and the reeds look like they have been trampled by something . If some come and some stag I generally apply another drop of glue and reposition the intact reeds in a clump. If you can get the glue on the ones that stood up anyway and IF you put the reeds at ground level that may make them all stronger when you com back and re-cut them. It really is practice and don't expect them all to come out perfectly. They never do.

The other advantage to cutting them is that it allows the reed clumps to be used more than once and we can always do with saving money at time.

Stage 14: I apply a spray mat varnish at the end. This not only protects everything some what it will also help seal everything in. It also has the additional side effect that any superglue ONCE FULLY DRY that has oxidized and given a glossy finish or has some small white flecks will miraculasly turn to a matt finish.

Like I said It is a lot of work and when I have been asked face to face the guy did walk away saying it was too much like work. His choice of course, just as it is your choice to take and use or just discard any or all of the stages that suit you. This is just what works for me.

Thanks for your patience in  reading this.

Have a good few days and I will post again soon. All the best Clint

Wednesday, 4 March 2015

Engineering Paras and extras.

And so my US Para company comes to an end with yet another platoon, this time the engineers Platoon.

As you can see I have Lt Spiers in command this time. Dave Docherty (curse him) supplied the name of an officer of Dog company so I felt forced to include him. Which would mean these are the 101st regiment and not the 82 "All American" regiment. But I will use them as both.

The engineers platoon consists of 7 bases including the lieutenant command stand. I am sorry to have to admit this command stand has M1 Carbines and not Thompson SMG, just because I ran out of SMG figures. But perhaps the M1 will make a nice change. So other than the command stand we have 3 Garand Rifle stands and a .30 Cal LMG stand and special to the engineers 2 flamethrower stands, But No Bazooka stands (Shame).

Having never used a flame thrower in the PBI rules I have no idea how good it will be but I am hoping it will be able to make any armoured vehicles think twice.

 The very knowledgeable among you will realise that the flamethrower figure is not actually in Paratroop uniform. But at this scale I am not going to worry about that as I knew my opponents will not either. For those of you looking to stop the difference it is most clearly in the boots, the helmet and the knees of the trousers. For those of you not worried, well done as it is only a playing piece after all. While all the other figures are Battlefront the flame throwers are Peter pig US Marines! I have only a single figure on the Flame base as let's be honest no one wants to stand too close to such an explosive bullet magnet. Well would you?

In addition the Peter Pig rules require dead markers so here are 8 dead counters. These  are the figures that you paint but hope never to use, but you have to have anyway. But with me in charge they will get a lot of use I am sure. In Fact I may need to go and buy some more! Yes perhaps I should put another order in right now!

As I had spare figures I also made 5 additional .30 Cal stands. This will allow me to swap out some of the BAR stands if I choose to give better LMG firepower. In the rules you can mix and match LMGs in the same Platoon as long as you do not go over the limit of 3 per platoon. So this option may well pay dividends only time will tell.

And Finally I have an assortment of figures made up into stands which technically I do not need but again you never know and it is a case of using up spare figures. And as I get points for them in the Painting challenge it made sense to do so.

So an extra SMG stand* a bazooka stand and another Rifle stand. I know I said I had run out of SMG figures for the command stand (Lt Spiers) but if I had used it there they would have been in identical poses and I would have always looked at the stand with an unformed question on my lips.

So that folks is all of my 15mm US Paratroopers for PBI. I will try to do a basing walkthrough on Friday so until then, take care, have fun, try to roll some dice and shove figures around the table.

All the best from Clint

Monday, 2 March 2015

US Paras part 3 Guns

Firstly I am changing the page banner still trying to find one that works for what I want, please bear with me.

Ok so carrying on with my 15mm US Paratroopers for Peter Pigs PBI rules. Today I have 2 57mm Anti-tank guns and crews. These are not the best guns in the rules or in the game or even in real life. Having said that they are not bad at all and will keep tanks and other armoured fighting vehicles at a distance.

2 stands of infantry with them both as additional crew and to carry ammunition and also to swap the enemy infantry from over-running them quite so easily. While they will struggle against the "Big Cats" of the German army they should be able to knock out Panzer 4s and the like. And I have included them in my  force as they were glider bourn. Only 2 of them as they were spread throughout the regiment and would not me given in great numbers to a company command.

 Also today 4 M1a1 75mm Howitzers. Again with a very light weight chassis they were hardly ever towed but instead broken down and shipped in pieces in WW2. One of the versatilities of this gun is the ammunition. While you do tend to think of High explosive for these guns they could also fire smoke and even Mustard gas. Although I have not found any evidence of mustard gas being used in Normandy during WW2. But the more I tell my opponent about it the more terrifying these become!

I have 4 not because they were more common than the anti-tank but because Peter Pig sells them 2 to a pack so it was for economic reasons really. In reality I probably should have just bought 1 pack! Too Late now though.

All the guns are on FOW bases simply because I had some spare and they fitted on quite nicely. I still have some spare and you just never know what they may be used for next.

Next post should be my final (stop cheering) US Paratrooper PBI post as I have now completed the Engineering Platoon, Which sounds a lot more interesting than it was. So I will do a walk through of how I do the bases at the end of this week. Seriously do not expect to learn anything!

All the best have fun, paint figures and keep warm. Right I had better upholster that sofa that I have been putting off. All the best Clint.

Friday, 27 February 2015

2 More Platoons.+

Well continuing with the 15mm US Paras here are 2 more platoons.

Firstly the MG platoon. in this platoon we have 4 .30 cal machine guns a command stand, a Garand rifle stand and as usual for me a bazooka stand. While you can have too many bazookas I have not as yet reached saturation point. I will know I have when my opponent fails to take any armoured vehicles and that has only ever happened in one game! All the figures in this platoon are Peter Pig except for the Command and rifle stands.

As with models shown previously they also have the US flag patch on their arms but no regimental flash, allowing me to use them as the 82 or 101 regiment should I choose.  I have given them orange tufts as in PBI these will count as medium machine guns and not light machine guns. As opposed to the red tufts I have given them in rifle platoons shown last time. As these guys are lying down I felt they were in more of a prepared position so the change of tuft colour made sense to me.They use the same .30 cal machine guns as the second platoon but as these are lying down.  It is a just a peculiarity in the rules and besides I did want a machine gun platoon so please forgive me that small peccadillo.

Next we have a Stove Pipe platoon. In the old rules Mortars were quite deadly as they effected everything in the same square which meant I would try to use them as often as I could. Yeah I am like that. But I know they have changed the rules and it will be interesting to see these in action under the new rules.  So we have 3 medium  mortars, command stand Bazooka stand (you are not surprised by that) and a Garand rifle stand to represent some troops carrying ammunition for the mortars.

The Bazooka stand might discourage armoured attention, but probably not so I think I had best keep something close by these to deter any German big cats. It is also hoped that the rifle and command stands might stop the stove pipes from being assaulted if they get to close to the Germans. But the idea is not to get them close!

I will no doubt have to add or subtract a stand or two as the points dictate so when it comes to a battle the platoon organisation throughout the force is likely to change.

Finally for today. Yes I can see another 2 posts for this company so I hope you are not bored just yet. I have included a single sniper crawling through the reeds. As with all the Mortar platoon this is a battlefront miniature, I had 3 in the boxed company set. But think I only need 1 in the new rules. So I may well do another just in case.

Next time I will show 2 support sections. And the time out My Engineer Platoon which has not yet been on the Analogue Painting challenge so I am forbidden from showing it until it has been for at least 24 hours. And as It will go on the challenge on Monday you may have to wait a very short while for that. But as it is not greatly exciting I am sure you can wait.

That's it for today, thanks for looking have a good day or two and see you again soon I hope.

Kind regards Clint