The answer is probably clear by now but for those still in the dark it is 35 of scale 10-15mm dry stone walling. What cha mean it don't look like that? Well it is now close enough for the wargames table. (Yes Jo you guessed it was walls give yourself a smug point and well done!) 
Ok so what did I do? starting from the hardboard bases I cut chip board into thin strips. Without a guard or a guide it was all done by eye and some are noticeably thicker than others. That's not the point, it's not even the issue! Then as the chip board was about 12mm thick I was able to break them with my hands to give an un even top and a ragged edge. Then with a hot glue gun I attached the chip board to the Hardboard bases. I will be the first to admit that I am barely competent with a hot glue gun but it worked for the most part. I only used it because it is pretty instantaneous in drying...... I think it dries too fast if I am honest. A couple of safety tips, as I have seen kids in schools try to use them in glue gun fights I can assure you that it is not a good idea unless you want to ruin each others clothes and loose all your pocket money for a long time! I would also suggest you do not eat the glue (hot or cold!) And lastly if you get it on you immediately wipe it off onto the work bench, do not wait to attract a teachers attention or rush to a sink. Additionally it is not butch and macho to see how long you can bear to hold the hot glue! Lecture over and common sense reinstated for the thicko's out there, you know who I am talking too!
The following day (I went in for some tea) I painted the hardboard areas with a mixture of green paint and Pva White wood glue and coated them with sand. The day after that I watered down some burnt umber acrylic and added more PVA and washed the chipboard to make it darker.
Another day later I repainted the hardboard and sand in a medium green and when that was dry I dry brushed some light green and yellow onto the bases.
As you can see it is all very straight forward but I did need to do it as otherwise my 10mm SCW battle field will look very barren indeed. So these added to my hedges and buildings should give enough cover so the machine guns do not decimate the other troops. This method will work for 10mm troops and 15 mm figures and 20mm figures should you wish to try making cheap simple and effective dry stone walls. Thanks for looking today and I plan to update on Monday. And If I forget my camera at the club tomorrow I will have to let you in on one of my secret plans (Mathyoo already knows)!
As ever comments are welcome. Have a good weekend and take care of you and yours all the best Clint.
What a great result Clint, they look wonderful and you made them look so simple to do.
ReplyDeleteThe hardest part was cutting the hardboard with a Stanley knife. It took a long time and while doing it I was never content. They are simple to do if on has a mind to and for 15mm games are all you need. Thank you Michael.
DeleteExtremely effective! Possibly the longer bases have warped a little, or is that just a trick of the perspective?
ReplyDeleteYou may be right I did not notice though I'll have to check again to make sure. Thank you C6.
DeleteAll that effort has paid off, Clint. They do look rather smart and ought to provide lots of cover.
ReplyDeleteThank you Mate. I feel the troops may need cover.
DeleteThey do look the biz Clint, nice one!!
ReplyDeleteYeah but 35 feet of walling will not go far on posties table of war. Thanks Ray
DeleteAll good stuff. It really is a pleasure seeing others use scrap to make stuff and the results you've got are excellent, still hard to believe that they're all for 10mm though.
ReplyDeleteI would have suggest though that you should have made some corner pieces, buttting walls together on a table I've always found to be a pain and you'll probably regret not having some shorter pieces too (for variety).
You're right too, that 35 feet sounds a lot, but its soon lost on any table larger than 6' x 4'.
Cheers Joe. I decided not to do corner pieces as I had a lack of spare hardboard. That being the case I just went for straights.
DeleteSo my guess SCW truck park was incorrect... Nice pleasing effect with minimal effort well done Clint.
ReplyDeleteThanks Robert, I could make a truck park with them though.
DeleteThey look great, Clint. Nothing like scratch-building nice terrain yourself. Best, Dean
ReplyDeleteThanks Dean. Home made is deffo cheaper than bought stuff so it gets my vote for that if nothing else.
DeleteThey came out really neat, great job. And hats down to your persistence. While it's a simple work, at least I find it boring as hell. It might seem like you got a lot now, but as Joe said, once it's all put on a table there's always place that could use some more! :D
ReplyDeleteOh yes more would be good. But as I will only need it as field boundaries I will supplement them with hedges. Cheers Matevž
DeleteEven I knew it was walls but didn't want to embarrass the other Rejects!
ReplyDeleteWell you are insightful Sir Francis and kind enough not to try to embarrass others less gifted than yourself!
DeleteI am equally sure you already know what my next terrain build will be. So if you want to tell me I might find that useful.
They are great Clint and now I see the appeal of the smaller scale as they look good and very effective. Damn you 28mm, lol
ReplyDeleteCheers mate, I am going to have to start my 6mm soon that will be a whole new ball game.
DeleteGreat report look a great game
ReplyDeleteCheers Vince.
DeleteGreat job Clint.
ReplyDeleteThey look great Clint well done with them.
ReplyDeleteThank you Brummie.
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